Long night: Those parts from the outboard leading edge and fuel tanks that need to be primed have been prepped, cleaned, etched and primed. As usual, I use Stuart System's EkoPoxy/EkoPrime.
It was a challenge to work on the floor. The gun had to be held at odd angles and I had trouble seeing through fogged goggles (even at 2200, it's toasty in July) with only three light bulbs providing illumination. These factors conspired to cause a number of cases of excessive primer application, especially on the splice ribs. However, since I was on the floor, I used the surplus boards from the work table construction to preventing priming the concrete. Turns out, these are much better to use than the packaging paper. The paper sticks to the wet primer and ultimately requires removing by light sanding, followed by a quick reprime.
It was a challenge to work on the floor. The gun had to be held at odd angles and I had trouble seeing through fogged goggles (even at 2200, it's toasty in July) with only three light bulbs providing illumination. These factors conspired to cause a number of cases of excessive primer application, especially on the splice ribs. However, since I was on the floor, I used the surplus boards from the work table construction to preventing priming the concrete. Turns out, these are much better to use than the packaging paper. The paper sticks to the wet primer and ultimately requires removing by light sanding, followed by a quick reprime.
Here is the stall warner hole on the left outboard leading edge skin. This had to be cut and filed. The kit provides starter holes (about the size of a #40) on the lateral edges. The plans call for drilling the holes out to #10, drilling a series of #40 holes between the larger ones, then filing out the hole to size.
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