Avionics: Flap position sensor.

Van's provides a quick kit for installing a flap position sensor.  The sensor will work great with my GRT HXr EFIS with the two being easily connected.  I already had the Ray Allen POS-12 (available from Aircraft Spruce) as I was planning to replicate an approach recently posted on VAF.

The steel rod that came from Van's was bent during the shipping process, however I happened to have a twin pack of 1/16" stainless steel rod from K&S, part #87131 (which can be found on eBay for less than $4, shipped).  The remaining parts in the kit include the Molex micro-plug, pins, plastic tube for bushing, screws and nuts.

The pushrod is cut and bent to plan (I should have put a ruler in that image - the pushrod is about 8 inches long).

The F-01450F Flap Motor Channel has two holes in its web specifically for mounting the sensor.  After removing, drilling a hole in and reinstalling the WD-1013A Flap Crank to accept the pushrod, everything is installed.

Here is a video in operation, flaps down (or is it up?).  About 12 seconds, stop-to-stop.

And now the sensor awaits its mating to the EFIS.  A future post describing that process is forthcoming.

Fuselage. Flap actuation system. Done.

This was an interesting section for me.  First, back in Section 32, when I placed the flap UHMW bushings, I foolishly fully torqued the bolts holding them in place, contrary to the explicit instructions in the plans.  

This caused the parts to distort, making it very hard for me to get the CS-00010 flap torque arms in place.  In fact, I had to use a hobby knife and strategic manipulation of the torque arms to get them into the bushings, culminating in this fine sight.

I eventually realized what I had done wrong and purchased new bushings, not looking forward to having to remove the originals since the baggage floors were already down.  Plus, I originally used lithium grease rather than Aeroshell #5 wheel bearing grease called for in the plans.

It turns out that it was relative easy to replace the bushings with some kinesthetic contortions and the help of a generous friend.  Here the left torque arm sits, happily in its replacement bushing, properly greased (sorry, didn't take images prior to putting in the torque arms).

I was also dreading having to cut the hole in the linear actuator shaft.  I didn't want to screw it up and it seemed like a step easily done wrong.  

So I hemmed and hawed over it for a month then finally just sat down to do it.  Following the approach given in the plans,  I think it came out nice.  I did break one drill bit, but in anticipation of that eventuality, I had purchased extra 1/16" bits.  I also put the hole clocked 90° in the wrong direction.  But it's a non-issue.  The safety wire is placed to prevent rotation of the actuator shaft, should the jam nut get loose.  That objective is still accomplished with my rotated hole.

Here is the actuator in place.  Without safety wire (left) and with (right).  I have yet to place the cotter pin in the images