Avionics: B&C SF601 alternator replaces PlanePower AL12-EI60

I decided to preemptively replace my PlanePower AL12-EI60 alternator at 513 hours.  It whines like a coyote despite the alternator filter, whereas my backup B&C BC410-H is as quiet as a mouse.  Late last year, B&C released the SF601 internally regulated alternator which is what I went with.  

Here are the differences I noted between the B&C and PlanePower.  No claims on if any of these are significant in any way.

• The B&C has no low voltage indicator light output.  So I needed to redesign my panel indicator board.
  
• The B&C tension arm bracket is longer, so I had to translate the forward heat muff outboard so its SCAT tube doesn't impinge on the bracket.
• The B&C brackets are not cadmium plated.
• B&C alternator is about 2 ounces heavier than the PlanePower.
• The bolt that holds the B&C alternator to the boss bracket is smaller in diameter.
• There is no bracket between the starter and B&C alternator like for the PlanePower (part V-1002 on plans page 43-12, shown below in red); Part V-1002 won't fit.  Looking at plans drawing, I'm curious why Van's included that bracket and why B&C didn't.

On the phone, the B&C tech told me that my alternator belt would need to be changed since the stock belt isn't the right length.  Turns out that they sent me the same Dayco 15355 belt that I already was using, so no belt change was necessary. 

My new B&C alternator has no whine.  Pilot happy.

 

Avionics: Connected right EFIS to backup battery and installed switch

Since I installed dual SureFly ignition in my airplane, having a fully electronic ignition means being thoughtful and deliberate about how those magnetos get their power.  Speficially, one needs a backup battery and a means to control how that battery is connected to the ignition and the main bus.  After designing and installing my backup battery system and realizing it has a lot more capacity than necessary for the SureFly, I connected my AHRS and left EFIS to the backup battery (shown towards the bottom of that post).  I did so through a locking DPDT panel switch that lets me disconnect the left EFIS from the both sources of power (primary and backup) simultaneously.

I decided to do something similar for the right EFIS.  I connected it to the backup battery also but instead, used a DP3T switch so I have the following three switch functions:  1) OFF, 2) primary only and 3) backup and primary.  For that switch, I used a NKK Switches M2044LL1W01-C to match the switch I have for the left EFIS.  Here is that switch newly installed on my panel.

 

Here is the pinout and connection information for the new switch.

Here the switch for the left EFIS, which I added when I swapped over to fully electronic ignition and installed the backup battery.

These switches are really most useful for when I need to update the EFIS databases.  I no longer need to switch on the entire panel.

Avionics: Replaced GRT HXr EFIS fan

The fan on my right GRT HXr EFIS has been making a racket on startup for years.  GRT says that the fan is a Sunon MC25101V2-000U-A99.  That fan is no longer manufactured, but I found the MF25101V2-1000U-A99 which is.  Turns out it moves a bit more air and uses a bit less current than the one it replaced.  So, win-win!

Removal of the EFIS for surgery. 

The fan is not designed to be field replaced.  You need to take apart the back of the EFIS to access the fan.  

And its wires are soldered on the reverse side of a circuit board.  

Rather than trying to fuss with desoldering those wires, I just cut them and spliced in the new fan with a few layers of heat shrink tubing for additional insulation.

Then the wires are tucked back in and the EFIS is reassembled.

 Success.