Avionics: LEMO connectors installed.

I see no need for standard headset jacks in my aircraft.  LEMO connectors provide both ship's power for ANR and a single connection point.  Additionally, the connectors lock into the socket (though that also introduces risk of breakage should one accidentally egress the aircraft whilst still donning one's headset).

I slapped together some images to show the pinout of LEMO connectors, shown below.

The PTG.M0.6NL.LC65N LEMO connectors require a 9/16" hole, which is a bit larger than the audio hole provided in the F-01447-L/R baggage floors. It's a tight fit in there for a unibit to upsize the headset hole.  I found a 1/4" drive unibit set on Amazon for the purpose.

 My drill just fit.

Here are the power, audio and mic wires from the airframe ready for connector assembly.  I left these wires nearly 2 feet longer than necessary to provide adequate slack for any later work I might need to perform on them.  This is why you see them outside of the airframe.

I opted to use some small 6-pin Molex connectors so that if the LEMO connector breaks, it can be easily removed and replaced.  These Molex connectors can be found here and here (required pins are also on those pages).

Looking in to those connectors, I configured them with the pinouts outlined below.

Here is the pilot side Molex connector.

The LEMO side Molex connector connected to the airframe wiring for testing. 

The pilot side LEMO installed.  The mic jack hole on each side will remain open and unused.  I'll probably close them off with a nylon washer lest any cookie crumbs fall down them.

A non-LEMO headset plugged in using an adapter.

Avionics: Control column harness.

Assembling the control column harnesses was relatively easy.  A run of a 48" set of wires was encased in 1/8" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving.  The sleeving was important for two reasons:  1) to reduce wear on the wires as the CS-00007 Control Stick Bases move and 2) to make fishing the harness through the absurdly tight space between the F-01451-L/R Tunnel Sides and F-01438-L/R Cover Ribs (shown below).  It was also a great time to make the communications coax.

Below is how I wired my Tosten CS-8 sticks.  Circles indicate wire colors from each pin. The color of the rectangles indicate the color of the wires coming from the sticks.  Though I don't have roll trim installed in the airframe, I accommodated that option in my wiring should I chose to install it later.

The harness and communications coax are ready for installation.  The coax has a BNC on only one end for now.  The BNC for the other end is affixed after the coax is routed. 

My vehicle trim panel removers were used to nudge the cables into the bushings.

Success!

Control Column Bases connector, a Molex 0430201200 using pins 0430310001.  I had to file off the powder coating to get these to fit in.  I'm still fidgeting with how best to fasten the harnesses to the stick bases to accommodate stick movement.

Stick connector, a Molex 0430251200 using pins 0430300001, as wired.

Testing of the stick buttons comfirmed proper wiring as all panel components and the relay deck operated as desired.

Here's the legend for the buttons.  Since it will be affixed to the interior (painted on 20-Sep-15), I used the same coloring as the legend's background so it will match properly.  If you would like to use and modify this legend for yourself, you can find it here as a PowerPoint file.  The g

I also made this legend, but ultimately decided I didn't like it.

Avionics: AHRS Bracket.

Because I'm using GRT avionics, I am unable to use the AHRS tray provision in the stock wing kit, as the GRT box has a different shape and location requirements.

GRT requirements for AHRS installation:

1. Should be mounted in the cabin to prevent condensation.
2. D-sub connector should be pointed aft.
3. Length of box must be aligned with longitudinal axis of airframe and that box must be level in roll.
4. Pitch orientation isn't critical, though should match longitudinal axis of airframe.
5. Alignment between the magnetometer and AHRS should match with 0.5° in all directions. 
6. Should not be exposed to direct airflow from any source.
7. Must be mounted on a rigid structure.

These requirements exclude mounting in the wing.  So, my friend suggested I copy the approach he used in his RV-9A, which is to create a welded, rigid shelf mounted against the firewall on the aft side.

Doing some simple trigonometry, we found the correct angle and part lengths to create the below temporary proof-of-concept tray out of 0.125" thick stock.

I then created the parts in my CAD program for precision and had it cut and welded at a local waterjet joint.  It probably cost about $100.  Here's the CAD file I made.

Following priming the tray and the addition of flush-mounted nutplates, the AHRS unit was mounted on the tray and the assembly was then bolted on to the firewall with AN3 bolts.  The angles of the AHRS, the magnetometer (already mounted in the tail) and longitudinal axis of the plane (as referenced by the F-01418A longeron) all agree to the 0.1° precision of my digital level.

Should the unit need to be serviced, I'll have to get on my back and shove myself into the footwell, but it will be easy enough to release the d-sub connector, pitot, static and AOA lines and then unbolt the tray to lower and remove the box.

Don't mind the crazy wires.  I'm not done routing and affixing them.

Update 11-Sep-16:  I added some lightening holes, cut area away from the bottom to match AHRS base's footpring and removed some area from the upper corners.  I foolishly neglected to add (subtract?) those in my CAD design.  I wanted to put a hole on each triangular piece, but I didn't want to risk it.

Avionics/Panel: Panel assembly test fit.

It was finally time to assemble the panel, as opposed to having it strewn about on the bench.
 
Here is the panel with the canopy essentially closed.  The only items missing are the audio jacks on the right, the airspeed indicator, the lenses on the Fuel Guardian and labels on the top left indicators LEDs.  I was pleased that the items at the top of the panel were both fully accessible and visible from a seated position. 

Weights:

• Total panel weight:   28.9 lbs (includes connectors and switches, sans wires and tubing).
• Left:  7.5 lbs.
• Center:  14.9 lbs.
• Right:  6.5 lbs (w/o AS indicator).

I was also pleased that it came together to closely match my original layout.

Now for some details...I decided to paint the panel black, thinking that white wouldn't match the gray interior color I previously selected.  I used the same Rust-Oleum Chalkboard spray paint as I applied on the glare shield.

For panel labeling, I had originally planned to use silkscreen, but later decided that I wanted a cheaper, simpler and more flexible option.  So I purchased the Brother PT-P7000 PC connectable label maker coupled with the TZe145 laminated white-on-clear 18mm wide tape.  Total cost was $58.19, shipped.  Using Brother's P-Touch software, I printed out labels as appropriate, cutting each and then using needle-nose tweezers to peel the backing and place each label.  It doesn't look as tight as a professionally fabricated panel, but I appreciate its low-cost implementation.

Some close-up images follow.

Left side.

Middle.

Incidentally, for the middle panel section, I had to hack out some of the F-01467 Instrument Panel Frame to accommodate my flaps switch and Fuel Guardian (images below - the corners were later rounded).  Also, I had to take my Hobbs meter to the Scotch-Brite wheel so it too wouldn't impinge on the Instrument Panel Frame.  The Hobbs is now affixed with only one screw, as the right screw could not accommodate a nut due to the Panel Frame, thus the right screw is Super Glue'd in..."shhhh".

Right side.

On the right side, similar to that of the middle, I again had to cut a notch out of the Instrument Panel Frame.  This time it was to accommodate the Winter 2.25" three dial altimeter.  One might also notice above the single 2.25" cutout lacking an instrument.  That hole is to later accept an airspeed indicator.  And the lift reserve indicator will later be color-coded to match the three flight envelopes.

Though I have been spending many hours placing the harness and other wiring, the panel is not yet ready to be fired up in the airframe.  That is probably still 10-20 hours of work out.  However, the majority of the panel was tested on the bench (a.k.a., both the kitchen and spare tables in my house).

Finish: Canopy and Window. Canopy window fitted, cut and drilled.

I had help for this entire sequence of steps.

The Canopy Assembly is placed on the airframe and aligned, then clamped into place along the Roll Over Structure.

The Forward Canopy Alignment Template from 38-39 is properly positioned along the F-01418 Canopy Skin.

The C-0401 Canopy is placed on the assembly and aligned to the template.  It's important to note that prior to this step, the edges of the window were rounded, smoothed and finished to a glass sheen.  The left side required the C-01423 Canopy Shim as the window's thickness on that side was < 0.17" (per Step 7, 38-22).

The window is then weighted and strapped down for match drilling.

Match drilling follows.

Several holes fell victim to chipping.  Most of the chips were later removed during countersinking.  However, two holes had chips that were too large to be removed via countersinking.  So they were filed and sanded down smooth.  One hole cracked inside the plexi itself, shown below (the crack is on the top whilst the bottom visual aberration is due to the plastic covering).  Thankfully, it is under a C-01419 Canopy Side skin, so it won't be visible.  Should it crack, it will probably propagate no further than the hole is it in, or out to the edge of the plexiglas.  So I should never see it even if it cracks. 

This chipping/cracking did not occur on the rear window.  Of note, a #27 bit is not used when there is metal underneath the plexi when drilling the rear window.  Thus, we believe this chipping/cracking occurred on the canopy window plexi because the #27 bit is used when metal is underneath the plexi.  That metal visibly and tacitly grabbed the #27 bit and advanced it very quickly through the plexi.  Though we used a #27 plexi-bit from Avery, it has a far more aggressive rake than the #40 and #36 plexi bits I had specially made by Great Lake Aero Products.  In contrast, the latter's bits provided a dubbed off zero rake angle and slow spiral polished flutes (I can't determine if the Avery bit has that kind of flute).

Following match drilling, the area to be fiberglassed is marked off with electrical tape, then aggressively sanded so the fiberglass has a good basal substrate to anchor upon.  We did not use the dimensions called out for in the plans.  We wanted more area to develop a smooth transition between the skin and window.  If it turns out that the extra area is unnecessary, the additional material need simply be sanded down.

The Canopy Skin is then prepared for painting along the nascently defined "glare shield".  I primed the skin on 22-Aug-15, so the primer needed to be gently sanded and washed with denatured alcohol as prep for painting.

Painting was done with Rust-Oleum Chalkboard spray paint.  I choose this paint after testing it on some scrap.  It was very, very difficult to scratch, applied very smoothly and had little discernible gloss.  That's the kind of finish that makes a good glare shield.

The application was successful.  Don't worry:  Though the angle of the image makes it look like the canopy window in the background is on the concrete floor, it's actually resting on two carpeted platforms.

The C-01419-L/R Canopy Side skins were cleco'd (left) then riveted on (right).  Note:  The plans call for this step to be completed with the canopy on the airframe.  I chose not to do so and I can't remember why.

The C-01450 Rear Seal is attached (below).  

With the canopy on the airframe, it is then screwed on to the assembly in a very specific sequence. 

Why not pause to get an interior shot?  You can see my Garmin radio stack trays in place.

Five clips were used to secure the forward edge of the canopy window.  A digital level was used to align and shim the entire frame so that no twist would be induced.

Fiberglassing commences.  The ply templates provided in the plans were not used primarily because they didn't match the shape of the larger area chosen to glass over.

This might be the final layer, hence the peel-ply.

The special sanding block described on 38-41 was made by screwing together two 6" pieces of scrap 2x4, taping copies of the stencil on each side then working at the surface with the belt sander until the requisite curvature was obtained.  Took only 20 minutes.

As with the rear window, it's worth noting that the canopy window edges also needed zero trimming.  They perfectly lined up with the Rollover Structure and were up to the F-01431D Window Shims.  That's just amazing.

Considerable work remains until the canopy is completed.  The work outlined in this post was encompassed within 34.1 hours, 11.4 hours shy of the work required for the canopy frame assembly itself.