The rear spars are on.
My new longeron yoke was useful, but there were still some rivets it couldn't reach, so a few had to be banged out.
There are three rivets with minor smileys. Not bad enough to warrant replacing. Also, one rivet has a poor shop end since the bucking bar walked out to the edge.I would love to replace it, but I'm sure I'd make it worse by elongating the hole since the factory head is nestled away between a flange and a web (I eventually replaced this).
There are three rivets with minor smileys. Not bad enough to warrant replacing. Also, one rivet has a poor shop end since the bucking bar walked out to the edge.
Speaking of which, it's not easy to remove rivets whose factory head is on the flange of the rib since there's no good way to get a drill into that area. How do I know? Because I used a -6 length where I should have used a -8 on the doubler plate. Trying to remove it was extremely difficult. I used the die grinder to get in as close as I could and drilled a hole in the factory head. Using a punch, I then tried to pry the head off only to "strip" the drilled hole leaving no point of leverage. Then all I could do was try to remove the rivet from the shop end. And when your rivet is already too short, there isn't much to work with on that side. So in the end, I had to drill out the entire rivet, making the hole slightly bigger. As a result, even the -8's shop end sits too low. I would have needed a -9 so there was more shank to take up the additional volume introduced by the elongated hole. So very little, if anything at all, was gained trying to replace that rivet. Oh well. What's done is done.
A similar issue occurred when riveting the torque tube support bracket to the right side rib: Because on this rib I put the factory heads on the rib flange, I didn't rivet in the bracket until afterwards (to give space for the rivet gun). This meant that I couldn't use the squeezer on one of the rivets because the flange bearing VA-146 was too high. So using the offset rivet set, a major smiley was introduced into the rivet, enough to warrant replacement. I should have used the 12" #40 drill bit to get to that rivet's factory head, but I didn't. Long story short, I made a mess of the removal, making the hole very large and introducing many gouges into the body of the bracket, requiring lots of sanding. You can see some of the mess in the image below on the right side. I'll need to reprime that area before replacing the rivet. I will use a -5 instead of a -4 rivet to make sure there is enough shank to fill up the extra volume of the elongated hole.
Building an airplane is a very humbling experience. Many times one reflects on whether this was a good idea. Time to push on.
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