Because I'm redoing my fuel tanks, I'm really only posting progress reports rather than additional details. See here for why I'm redoing my tanks. Technique details on the original fuel tanks are found in their associated posts.
There are five nutplates for each fuel level sender that must be attached to the inboard rib of each tank.
Six of the ten rivets holding these nutplates are easily reached using a squeezer with a standard 3" deep yoke. The forward most 4 rivets must be reached with a deeper yoke, such as a 4". Barring that last yoke, these four rivets can be back-riveted with a dumbell bucking bar. Just make sure the curvature of the dumbell doesn't overlap that of the rib, otherwise the rib's "bump-out" will be deformed.
Setting up the bucking bar on the manufactured heads. The cleco pliers is to balance the rib so it doesn't fall over.
Here the bucking bar is set so the rivet in the upper right is ready for bucking.
Bucking.
In the image above, you can see my capacitive plates in the process of being formed. And on the rib, you can see the additional holes for the capactive plate (fabrication & installation on original tanks) BNC connector as well as for my low level optical fuel sensors (spec'ing & installation on original tanks).
I actually didn't remember how I set those forward four rivets on my first tanks. I had to review my fast-motion video from July of last year to see how I managed those. See here for information on that setup. Though I don't post the videos, I do post images from that camera from time-to-time (they're the ones with the bird's-eye view perspective like the above).
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