I decided to redo my rudder due to the trailing edge. Here is the post outlining the new rudder.
The rudder skins have 7 stiffeners each (similar to the ailerons, they don't have ribs...I'm curious why that is...perhaps to avoid using pop rivets on control surfaces?). It's easy to back rivet these in. Only need to be careful and realize the back rivet plate's extent under the work piece so you don't attempt to buck a rivet without the plate's backing (I just barely dented the left skin from the rivet set collar on the last, bottom rivet).
To complete this task, I taped all the rivets in (left) so they stayed in place when the skin is flipped over (right). Then I set the stiffeners in place (center) and went to town with the rivet gun.
The shear clips get attached to the right skin's stiffeners. Interestingly, the plans call for LP4-3s to be used. I believe this is to prevent distortion of the parts, rather than for accessibility. Because a pull rivet expands from the distal end (relative to the manufactured head) inwards, nothing can expand either between or within parts. Anyway, it's a tight fit to get the rivet puller in there, so I used the advice from Chapter 5 and fashioned a wedge tool from some scrap VA-140 Trailing Edge Wedge. Below is how it's used (I only have two hands so I couldn't align and pull everything tight for the shot, but the illustration should still be understandable).
Here is the right skin with its stiffeners and riveted together. Notice the lap joint is primed since it will be squished under the left skin soon.
And for good measure here's the left skin.
Here is the right skin with its stiffeners and riveted together. Notice the lap joint is primed since it will be squished under the left skin soon.
And for good measure here's the left skin.
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